Your friend will receive an email from you with a link to our site. 80% Lower Jig Kit, Gen 2 For use with drill presses. We offer a everything you need to get started in our MinuteMan kit , available with three (3) lower receivers. As far as I know, these two are the state of the art in jigs at this instant in time (October 2017). 80% lower AR-15 Easy Jig gen2 router jig review Manufacturer's sale page for the Easy Jig gen 2 for AR15 and AR10 Recently 80% Arms released a completely redesigned version of their original Easy Jig router-based system. I wouldn’t toss them; but would keep them for packing away the jig later. This jig will also fit all other 80% lowers on the market. Easy Jig Gen 2 (multi-caliber version or the AR-15/AR-9 only versions) Drill Bit Kit : Build your own or it’s easier to buy from 80% Arms since the mill bit is proprietary Wood Router: Check their compatibility list on the site, but we went with the highly recommended Ridgid R2401 Router 80% Lower Receivers, AR15 80 percent lower Jig, AR 15 complete uppers, Rifle and Pistol Kits. As learned with the 5D jig, I checked the tightness of the bit and the depth stop when moving from gauge one to the second gauge, and I started each of the last passes and immediately checked the depth before continuing. The end mill cut like a dream, much better than my previous experience with the 1/4″ end mill in the 80% Arms Gen 1 jig, but it threw the chips EVERYWHERE! Screw the long bolt though the threaded hole at the bottom of each side plate, to prevent deformation when clamping into the vise. There were none in the cavity except for a few in the pilot hole. (Not Router Compatible) Includes: Fixture Plate #1 Fixture Plate #2 1/4" Pin 1/4"-20 Socket head cap screw 1 3/4" Length 10-32 Socket head All in all it was a significant step forward in 80% jig technology, and a similarly advanced Generation 2 of the Easy Jig became available not long afterwards. I repeat this sequence until the upper fits, then wipe off the remaining goo. Drilling the single pilot hole was a joy, at least relatively speaking. It looks like the 5D jig is being replaced with the “Pro” version, which should probably be better than the original 5D jig since it seems to address some of the concerns I encountered without changing the good parts. Heavy duty constructions ensures accuracy and long life. It would not be unwise to do a final check of these again before doing the last few passes. (Not Router Compatible) Includes: Fixture Plate #1 Fixture Plate #2 1/4" Pin 1/4"-20 Socket head cap screw 1 3/4" Length 10-32 Socket head cap screw 2" Length Template #1 10-24 The test will be a billet receiver completed in the 5D jig immediately followed by one in the 80% Arms jig. Insert the appropriate set of pins through the jig and the pivot and take-down pin holes in the receiver, then get the buffer tube (Shop-Vac port) started in the buffer tube socket and screw it in only three full turns (to allow final adjustment) then tighten the two cap screws holding on the buffer tube support. I’ve been using the 80%, Gen 1 for a while now without problems, although I think I may just upgrade to the Gen2, just because. One thing to be aware of: the thickness of the sidewalls pushes the overall width which needs to be in the vice to 3 1/8″, which didn’t fit into my 3″ jaw drill press vice; so I used a bench vice. The instructions are very detailed and included in printed form in the package; the latest version is also available in PDF form on the web site. The only differences are that it is easier to position the step about 1/16″ below the collet than it is the taper, and there is a centering procedure for the bearing described in the instructions which is pretty important. Anderson 80% Lower Jig Kit, Gen 2 (0) $77.96 On sale: $70.95 Sale Out of Stock. These areas can be ground down with a Dremil tool, and the upper installed again to find where else it is tight. For the coating/color I cheat: I get unfinished Al billets, finish them up, and take them to a local automotive powder coating place to provide the finish coat. End Mill Bit – Both require using their own (or possibly each other’s) end mill, because neither uses the shank of the bit as a guide like the older technology jigs. The port requires a 1 1/4″ hose, but is male, and most hoses have a male end as well. Also, since the guide system uses two points, if you allow the router base to rotate, the end mill won’t be able to reach all the way to one side. Figuring the right speed to move the router at was difficult for her. The side plates are connected to the top plate with two cap screws each, which should not be completely tightened in order to allow final fitting. The pivot pin holder attaches to the front of the jig with two more of these screws. As a final step, I have a friend who wants an AR in that non-standard color, and has not only never done an 80% before, but is completely unpracticed with anything mechanical, so I’ll have her use the “better” (in my opinion) or at least “easiest” jig to see how “idiot proof” it is. There is a disc which screws into the buffer tube socket; if getting it in (or out) is a problem, screw the last two Phillips flat head screws in part way to act as a “handle”. During the depth gauge two phase of this test, the router depth stop loosened, requiring me to re-tighten it and redo some passes to even out the floor. The 5D bit tapers from the 1/4″ shaft used by trim routers to 5/16″ for the rest of the shaft to the cutting flutes to reduce flexing and improve cutting. Ask and you’ll likely get one of three answers: 5D tactical, Easy Jig Gen 2, or “If you do only AR-15s then 5D else Gen 2”, and in many cases, the person responding has only used one of them, so their answer is suspect. Finally, it is easier to have the cavity too narrow with the two point guide system than it is with the one point guide system. I can’t say for sure, but mounting the 80percentarms receiver to be used in this comparison, it appeared this receiver also might not have fit if the modification had not been done, although it looked to be real close. The router has to be prepared as well. Neither jig contacts the receiver, so should handle most of the receivers out there, although being closed ended, they may have difficulties with receivers with buffer tube sockets longer than spec. If you do your part, this jig can produce top notch results with much less work than with an older technology jig, but it does offer you opportunities to screw things up. I would say that someone who can follow instructions and has used a router and drill before should be able to make a good receiver without difficulty. In order to maximize the effectiveness of the Shop-Vac chip removal, use tape to close off the top half (above the jig) of the Shop-Vac port as well as all the holes in and around and between the side plates. The 80% Arms drill guide is 1 1/2″ thick, which should make it harder to screw up with a hand drill. This could work very well, but you will have to stop milling twice to change the lengths of the pins, which confines your milling to the appropriate areas. As a result of paying close attention, no equipment dared to act up and the result was an excellent cavity, with a nice finish. You have to provide your own Allen wrenches (3/16 and 7/64) which some jigs come with, and you need a Phillips screwdriver. There is a hole on each side of the guide which aids in chip removal without sacrificing any guidance of the drill. Unless you are really good at keeping a hand drill perpendicular, it is better to use a drill press for this hole. The guide is thick enough that it provides lots of support for keeping the drill vertical, encouraging no nicks along the sides of the trigger slot, and along with the 80% Arms length drill, makes it “impossible” to ding up any built in trigger guard. If the take-down pin pocket is not already milled at all or you don’t want to “hand fit” the upper, do use the shortest guide pins. I’d say the defining difference is the buffer tube support. You will need a Phillips screwdriver and/or whatever tool is used to remove the stock router base. Adding the Dewalt Shop-Vac helped but did not come close to equaling the Gen 2 built-in port. Also, keep it legal. The Gen 2 has the same sizes, but “steps” from one to the other. This was because they were the only place I found which had lowers (and uppers) which matched a particular color I wanted AND could engrave them, and although the other color I use is universally available, I wanted all the test receivers to be as identical as practical to ensure the most accurate comparison. In universality, the Gen 2 has the advantage. The first one I did with this jig was a Tennessee Arms Liberator, which was significantly longer than spec, so I used a 1/4″ end mill and my drill press to cut notches in each side of the end bar to allow the receiver to be installed. These accessories cost $20 each or a set of two is $30. Install the first set of guide pins into the jig base on the router. My name is Dan, I'm making videos because it has been suggested I do so by many people. The Gen 2 avoids these quirks without introducing any significant ones of its own except for the Shop-Vac port being male, and is a bit more “idiot resistant”. I force the lug into the pocket as far as it will go; when I remove it, some of the yellow goo has transferred to the places in the pocket which are tight. I suggest ending each pass with a complete clockwise tour around the outside of the cavity making sure the jig base plate is parallel to the sides of the jig plate, as if the base rotates, it changes the geometry of the guide system. Get notified of the latest posts from the Prepper Journal. The marks were a bit easier to read than the 5D, but the last few in the gauge did need more light to see. Insert the end mill bit into the router and finger tighten the collet (a segmented band or sleeve put around a shaft or spindle and tightened so as to grip it) until the bit just barely slides, then push in the bit until it stops (hits the start of the taper). Editors Note: Another guest post from John Hertig, number 24 I believe, to The Prepper Journal. I’d say the 80% Arms is noticeably better for most people, “better” being defined as “easier to use and harder to screw things up” because both can do an equally good job, which is better than was practical with older technology jigs. As for a finish, most now come in pop tops for the home smith. With the pins in place and the two screws tightened into the disk, the receiver does not move at all in the jig. 80% Lower Jig Kit, Gen 2 For use with drill presses. Now follow the instructions on how to tighten the four cap screws and the buffer tube screw (using the Allen wrench through the two holes) in order to ensure the jig and receiver are assembled square to each other. It is not completely “idiot resistant”. We will contact you as soon as this product is available. The New Frontier Armory Complete 80% Jig Kit is all you need to complete the final machining process to turn your 80% AR-15 Receiver into a working stripped lower receiver. So which one is better? I have not seen any reports of people’s trigger hole being messed up with this jig. There are two nylon tubes through the selector holes which hold the side plates securely together; the plates must be pulled apart against the friction of these tubes. quality AR15 lower products. I was standing to the side of the jig to do the milling and after a few passes, I noticed that the side wall on the side next to me was tapered, so had to go back and redo those passes. The last step is to install the pilot hole guide, which can only go in one way with an unmilled receiver installed, and is held in place with the last cap screw. As to the two guide methodologies, the 5D system works well if you do your part; however the Gen 2 system does not have problems if you don’t hold the base parallel to the jig plate, and is not subject to the risk of dropping small parts or having to change guide pins part way through the milling. Follow the instructions to figure out which direction to mount them for the model you will be making, and make sure the directional label on each side plate matches the directional label on the top plate. I’m a fan of the Tennessee Arms brass reinforced polymer receivers but to give the jigs a real test, I got billet receivers from 80% Arms. The kit comes with 3 aluminum jig plates, 1 steel top router plate, and all screws The 5D walls are supposed to be 1/2″ thick and the 80% Arms walls are supposed to be 3/4″ thick. When you get right down to it, the milling operation and drilling the pin holes are the most important things to evaluate. Then again we had full machine shops with everyone experienced machinists and gun/knife smiths. The UFS 80% lower receiver jig was designed specifically for the UFS 80% lower receiver. The initial drilling of the Gen 2 is way better, only needing one hole instead of two, having more support to keep the drill perpendicular and not requiring any depth restriction (unless the drill bit is extra long). It is wise to check after each pass and manually suck any remaining chips, particularly when using depth gauge two. After several passes, I noted that the two screws holding the buffer tube disk in place had backed out some. And if you drop one of the small parts, you have to look for it, and if you can’t find it, you are at a standstill until you get it replaced. Note that if your buffer tube socket is longer than mil-spec, it won’t fit into the 5D jig unless you modify the jig plate. The receiver is held in the jig by a pin through the pivot pin lug, a pin through the take-down pin lug, and two flat head screws through the jig end into that disk screwed into the buffer tube socket. It is unnecessary and may be difficult to use a drill press with the Gen 2, because of the height of the drill guide. I’ve been comparing the two trying to figure out which way to go. In the 5D, the drill guide is about 3/4″ thick, so using a hand drill can still end up in the hole being at an angle and there have been reports of this happening. The Dewalt just takes 4 screws though the jig base into threaded holes in the router base. The resulting pilot hole was dead centered in the trigger slot. The Gen 2 requires only one hole to be drilled, an 11/32″ hole all the way through both to start the router in and as a trigger slot pilot. We’re looking forward to testing this bad boy out in the future too! The jig panel is held to the side plates by six Allen head cap screws. Menu Finish an 80% Lower Jigs and Tools Router Jig Showdown! But if you used a 3/8″ pilot hole, it would be bigger than the trigger slot it is pilot for. Make sure you put the pins in before tightening the screws into the disk, or the receiver may be pulled too far to the rear for the pins to go in. 80% Arms Gen 2 Jig – Newbie User I did all the setup, but for legal reasons, the machining was done by the actual owner under my supervision, so it was not quite a true newbie experience. We will use the Dewalt DWP611 trim router, as in my opinion (as well as many others); it is the best router for this task. And as you get deeper in the cavity, it seems to be easier to find the pilot hole, getting harder again as you near the bottom. Unique Features – The Gen 2 has a port to which you can connect a Shop-Vac to help suck out the chips. AR-15 80% Lower Receiver Jig ($ 69.99) reviewed by Allyson Brown Overall just very low quality, wish I could get a refund and buy the "Anderson Gen 2 80% Lower Receiver Jig Kit" instead because I know it's better all around and cheaper! I contacted 80% Arms to see if they were interested in me doing a head to head comparison, and they agreed. 5D offers free shipping on orders over $200 and so does 80% Arms. Early on, going too fast, the router jumped, and then after that, the nervousness led to slower than necessary movement for a while. If I make an appointment, they let me stand there the entire process. Servicing the AR-15 market, we make provide you with the AR-15 parts you need to get the rifle you want. It is best to use a drill press with the 5D to drill the trigger slot pilot hole. router-based system. Plan your steps and if need be, put them down on paper. Add an 80% Lower Completion Jig Add Router Jig Tool Kit*: Description Learn More The 80% AM-15 Machined Lower is finished in Type III Hard Coat Anodize, Black in color. This would be handy if that is the router you already have (and you have a 1/4″ collet for it), but I’m wondering if it would be more difficult to use precisely. You don’t have a Bridgeport Mill ! I use a Central Machinery mill/drill, (Harbor Freight), since I had it already, and the 2-axis table makes the entire process a breeze. Make sure your cutting speed is set for the metal you are working with. By the time I reached the end of this depth gauge, the hole was deep enough to contain a majority of the chips, and the vacuum no longer had much effect anyway. That small circular movement methodology these advanced jigs require makes it easy to miss getting into the corner. (Only one template bolts to the top at a time.) This can be disconcerting if you try to install it incorrectly. After drilling the holes, remove the four screws and pry out the hole guide (the Phillips screwdriver in the smaller hole works well). Although better than 5/16″ for starting the router bit each pass, it is a bit tighter than 3/8″. This receiver is fairly priced as a polymer lower. Drilling the selector and pin holes was slightly easier using the Gen 2 jig, and even easier using the stabilizer block. The UFS 80% Lower Receiver Jig Kit is made up of 3 aluminum plates (sides & top drill plate) & 2 steel top mill plates. Use the Comparison Results to help you decide. Drilling Required – The 5D jig requires two holes to be drilled, a 3/8″ hole to depth to start the router in, and a 5/16″ hole all the way through as a pilot for the trigger slot, although using a 5/16″ hole for a 5/16″ end mill bit might be a bit tight. In addition to my review here, you can see more on it atÂ the company’s website here. What I will say and hold as gospel is to take your time setting up to do the work. The 80% Arms Gen 2 jigs are being ordered faster than they can make them and the site says to expect three weeks between order and shipping. The quality of the results was neck and neck with the 5D jig, but I found the Gen 2 easier to use and with fewer ways to screw things up. If you are very skillful at hand drilling or only need to do a couple of receivers or have a drill press, you can save some money by getting the aluminum version of the 5D jig (AR-15 only). I have always been curious about 80% lower recievers but it wasn't until a good friend introduced me to the the Broken Arms 80% Lower Jig that I really got locked on! FFL violation and all that. Thank you sir! Anderson Manufacturing 80% Lower Receiver Jig allows you to complete a forged aluminum 80% lower receiver. Raw SR25 AR-10 .308 80% Lower with Jig Kit $ 259.99 $ 174.95 Cerakote LR-308 DPMS .308 80% Lower Receiver $ 159.99 $ 114.95 Top rated products AR-15 Rifle Kit 5.56 M4 16" / Chrome-Lined $ 649.99 $ 499.95 $ 139.99 $ And although the 5D can do a good job, it is messier than the Gen 2 and slightly more subject to error. 80% Arms Easy Jig Gen 2 Tool Kit This item is currently on order MSRP: $49.99 New Frontier Armory 80% AR-15 Lower Completion Jig Usually Ships in 24 Hours MSRP: $56.99 Sale Price: $54.95 JoeBob dun saved you $2.04! I was astonished to find an unexpected slot along the grip lug; on measuring the cavity, I found that it was .06″ too deep. The instructions are very specific that you NOT use a cordless drill. Since both side plates are threaded, this keeps the jig from distorting when clamped in the vise. If the paint shop does your complete receivers “while you wait”, then there is no FFL violation. I am quite competent mechanically and have done a few 80% AR receivers using a drill press jig, an Easy Jig Gen 1 and the 5D tactical jig so far, so can be considered quite familiar with the process. Specification Comparison (From the Web Sites). If you are still nervous, 80% Arms has a hardened steel “stabilizer” which mounts to the side plate and doubles the amount of the drill bit supported to an equivalent of 1 1/2″ thickness. The one point guide system has no risk of changing geometry like the two point system does, but it is still a good idea to go around the outside once you think you are done milling a pass. This kit comes with all the fixture plates, templates, and drill bits you need to finish your DIY rifle. Without the vac running, chips still are not much of a problem, except you do need to suck them out manually after each pass. Copyright var date = new Date(); document.write(date.getFullYear()); AR Junkies LLC. But I had to chuck the small drill further out in order to give it enough length. Required fields are marked *, Copyright 2020, The Prepper Journal - All Rights Reserved. It also comes with 4 allen head bolts and an alignment pin to ensure perfect fit every time.
2020 anderson 80% lower jig kit, gen 2 review